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If you have sensitive (or sensitized) skin, you may be wondering if retinol is safe for you to use. According to three dermatologists who spoke to Bustle for this article — Dr. Brendan Camp, Dr. Marisa Garshick, and Dr. Azadeh Shirazi — the answer is a resounding yes. Still, all three derms agree that sensitive-skinned folks do have to be careful about using retinol the right way. That entails making sure you’re using one of the best retinols for sensitive skin — aka, a product that contains a low concentration of retinol (at least at first) — and allowing your skin to adjust to the product by starting out “low and slow” before working your way up to more frequent use. To learn more, keep reading, because you’ll find answers to your most commonly asked retinol questions below, as well as product recommendations from the experts.
Is retinol safe to use on sensitive skin?
As previously stated, yes — retinol is safe to use on sensitive skin, but there are a few things to keep in mind. “Having sensitive skin should not preclude you from using a retinol,” says Dr. Camp. “While retinols are notorious for untoward side effects, such as dry skin, redness, and irritation, there are ways to use these products in such a way such that all skin types can use them.”
How to use retinol with sensitive skin:
According to Dr. Camp, “Retinols do not have to be applied every night to be effective. When first starting a new retinol product I often recommend patients use it every third night for a month. This allows you to slowly introduce the medication to the skin and gives your skin time to adapt to its effects. Overtime, as your skin becomes more comfortable with the retinol, it can be used with increased frequency.” Dr. Garshick suggests a similar approach: “Those with sensitive skin should introduce retinol at a low concentration and start slowly, which means only using it a few times per week to start. The gradual introduction of a retinol using a ‘low and slow’ technique can help the skin adjust to retinol use and be less likely to cause redness, dryness, or irritation.”
Both Dr. Camp and Dr. Garshick suggest applying a pea-sized amount of retinol to cover your entire face on skin that’s completely dry. (“Applying retinols to skin that is totally dry will limit its absorption, and therefore limit potential side effects. This may mean waiting 10 minutes for the skin to completely dry after washing it before applying the retinol,” Dr. Camp explains.) “Avoid the skin around the eyes, nose, and lip, as they tend to be more sensitive to the effects of retinols,” he adds.
Retinol is usually applied on bare skin that’s been freshly cleansed, but if you have sensitive skin, you may want to rethink your approach. “Those with sensitive skin may prefer to apply a moisturizer after cleansing and then apply a retinol after to reduce irritation,” Dr. Garshick suggests. “ If irritation still persists then there is another option of the sandwich technique, where you would apply moisturizer, then the retinol and then moisturizer again. For those with sensitive skin, it can also help to apply petrolatum ointment such as Vaseline prior to applying a retinol to the skin around the eyelid, corners of the nose, and the lip as this provides a protective barrier to prevent the skin in these areas from being impacted or irritated by the retinol.”
Dr. Shirazi offers up another, similar approach: “I have my [sensitive-skinned] patients break up their night time routine into two parts. Cleanse and moisturize first earlier in the evening, then later, closer to bedtime, apply your retinol on its own. The reason being your skin goes into receiving the retinol cleansed and well hydrated, therefore tolerating it better.”
What are the best retinols for sensitive skin?
“Generally retinols are found over-the-counter while there are prescription retinoids available which tend to be stronger, but may still be an option for those with sensitive skin if introduced gradually,” explains Dr. Garshick. (For this article’s purposes, we’re going to be focusing on over-the-counter products — aka retinols in their truest form — only.)
“A cream-based product may be more hydrating and better tolerated than a gel-based product,” says Dr. Camp, who suggests retinyl propionate as a good option for people with sensitive skin, because it’s a milder version of retinol.
Dr. Shirazi suggests retinyl palmitate, which is similar to retinyl propionate. She says it’s the lightest form of retinol, and calls it “ the chamomile tea version, since it has to be converted three times to have an effect on the skin.” Other types of retinols to consider include standard retinol OTC, which is also gentle, according to Dr. Dhirazi, but “ but more of a green tea.” Last, there’s retinaldehyde — “a black tea version suitable for those who aren’t quite ready for prescription strength, but looking for a step up from retinol.”
In a hurry? These are the best retinols for sensitive skin:
1. Best Retinol Serum: La Roche-Posay Retinol Serum B3
2. Best Retinol Gel: Differin Gel
3. Best Retinol Cream: Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Regenerating Cream
4. Best Retinol Capsules: Elizabeth Arden Retinol Ceramide Capsules
5. Best Retinol Stick: Peace Out Skincare Retinol Eye Stick
What products should you avoid when using retinol on sensitive skin?
All three doctors recommend avoiding other potentially irritating active ingredients and exfoliants when first starting to use retinol. These include, but are not limited to, benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, vitamin C, and even certain toners. “It is recommended to introduce these products to your skin care regimen only after your skin has adjusted completely to the retinol,” Dr. Camp cautions.
Some last parting words of wisdom from the dermatologists: “Be patient. It is normal for people, even those without sensitive skin, to experience dryness, redness, irritation, or discomfort when starting a retinoid… it is also important to note that if the skin does become irritated at any time when using a retinol, it is okay and encouraged to skip a few days to allow the skin to recover prior to continuing to use it,” says Dr. Garshick. And don’t forget your daily SPF, since retinol can make your skin more sensitive to the sun.
To shop the best retinols for sensitive skin — all suggested by the experts — keep scrolling. Then, pick up one of the best moisturizers to use with retinol.
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