Fashion

The Clothing Line Designing For Big-Boobed Gals

by Jodie Layne

If you're above a C cup, then you probably know the familiar pull of fabric across your chest in a fitting room. Those fashion cubicles are full of potential panic attacks for anyone with some body image issues as it is (if you're from planet Earth, there's a good chance that might mean you), let alone for women who can't get even the stretchiest of sweaters over their ta-tas. Good news, though: UK-based brand Bitter Lollipop feels your pain, and has launched a line of dresses for full-busted women as of this fall. The fashion baby of designer Kelly Roberts, the collection currently features eight styles, including two Holiday Collection pieces. And as someone who has been feeling that aforementioned tug of fabric for as long as I can remember, I can attest to the fact that these dresses fill a huge gap in the market — they're trendy while being accommodating.Each of the pieces is designed in a modern, curve-flaunting silhouette, with not a sheath dress to be seen. They're made in on-trend patterns and fabrics (like neoprene) and designed by a young woman for other young women. Best of all, they're pretty affordable compared to the other full-busted clothing available on the market. In a press release about the line, Roberts says:

"I was tired of the frustration that comes with trying on a cute dress and finding that I couldn’t zip it up past my bust or that I looked like I could pop out at any moment! As a fashion lover, there is nothing more disheartening than knowing you’ll never be able to wear the clothes you so adore."

I hear you loud and clear, girl! I know that a full chest is "supposed" to be something that's part of the "ideal body shape," but sometimes big boob problems feel like a lot more trouble than they're worth. Back to Bitter Lollipop, though, check out some of these awesome solutions:

Kate Printed Shift Dress, $170,

Tiffany Textured Fit & Flare Dress, $107, bitterlollipop.com

Chloe Shimmer Midi Dress, $140, bitterlollipop.com

Between this product launch and Reformation's take on "full cup" fashion, hopefully the universe is signaling a change in the types of bodies that are accommodated in the ready-to-wear fashion industry. There are so many unique aesthetic shapes that exist when it comes to the female form, and whilst I'm a firm believer that we need the industry to change our expectations of how an off-the-rack garment should fit us, it's refreshing to see brands acknowledge that the clothes they make might not fit all people — and that this fact is not the fault of a person's body, but of the restrictions of making a design for a vast market.

While all body types are so different, and it's subsequently tough for indie labels to make it in a world dominated by chains, I think it's important for these niche brands to exist: Even though I was a little disappointed at first that this line stops at the higher end of straight sizes. My plus-size self might be able to squeeze into a stretchier silhouette — bless you, fit and flare dresses — but that's about it. At the same time, however, I understand that this is a startup, and in time perhaps Bitter Lollipop will expand that straight-size range for more size inclusivity.

The thing is, having a larger chest isn't about your weight or size — and contrary to popular belief, slender women can have large boobs, whilst plus-size women can have small ones. When it comes to the way garments are sized, we often see brands simply make a larger version of their size 8 products to cater to their plus customers (with the exception of Addition Elle, who actually accounts for the variants in women's body types as their size goes up or down). What we don't see a lot of is brands that cater to the different proportions that occur when a slender body has large boobs, a bigger body has small ones, or when the curvature of straight and plus bodies just isn't the same. This is why I've had to size up just to fit my chest into a cute style, for instance. When buying from an indie designer or custom-fit retailer like eShakti, it's worth getting the garment tailored for the best possible fit. But when buying something from a fast fashion retailer, it seems a little less worth it to get that $25 dress from Forever 21 taken in at the waist. Fashion problems, people.

It's about time that brands — both plus and straight ones and everything in between — offer sizes for bustier women! At a 40 DD, I know I'm on the smaller side of the chesty women who shop plus clothes, so I get more options than some. But there have got to be G cup women out there who are just wanting a button-down shirt in their lives — regardless of their size elsewhere. Niche clothing lines like Bitter Lollipop are definitely helping us get there, but much more work is to be done.

So, dear brands: Please start designing clothes that aren't just for one body type. Design with the understanding and acknowledgement that all figures are different. Offer clothing that's easily alterable (if necessary) or that is accommodating of different bodies to begin with. The possibilities are endless. A line of pants specifically for women with wide hips or thick thighs? Why not? A line for tiny-busted women who also have big hips? If the market's there, go for it! There's a whole swath of consumers waiting to be recognized and catered to — so clothe them.Images: Bitter Lollipop, Giphy