Makeup

Soft Goth Makeup Is This Season's Moodiest Beauty Trend

It's more wearable than you might think.

by Emma Stout
Soft goth makeup is this season's moodiest beauty trend.
Instagram / @melaniemakeup; @ninapark

It’s not a phase, Mom — soft goth is officially the makeup style of the season.

“After seasons of clean beauty, soft goth brings mood and emotion back to makeup,” says celebrity makeup artist Christian Briceno. Think romantic and diffused from the eyes to the lips. But why now? Well, you can thank the A-listers for that.

Jenna Ortega — no surprise here — teamed up with makeup artist Mélanie Inglessis to reintroduce the ’90s-inspired look in the chicest way possible this fall. Mia Goth (fittingly) rocked it on the Frankenstein press tour, and Charli XCX and Rosalía have been showing up on red carpets with smoky shadows and blurred lips that feel equal parts edgy and effortless.

Of course, the makeup isn’t full goth — no white face paint needed — or even classic grunge. It’s all about romance, mystery, and modern techniques. And the stars leading the charge are proving that soft goth works for any occasion, Met Gala and beyond.

What Is Soft Goth Makeup?

The trend is more wearable than you might think. “While traditional goth makeup is defined by high contrast and sharp lines, soft goth replaces harsh edges with a hazy finish, uses muted black as an accent, and keeps skin looking lively,” explains Briceno. But that’s just the tip of the iceberg. The real update comes down to the color palette, which is softened and made far more wearable.

Cool-toned slates and charcoals step in as the modern black, “with the same drama, but more sophistication and far more forgiving on camera and in real life,” according to Briceno. Soft goth’s refreshed neutrals include espresso, aubergine, greige, and taupe. Red lips get replaced by smoky mauve, black cherry, and oxblood tones for added vampiness. And instead of bright metallics, opt for a muted pewter, antique gold, or smoked plum shimmer. The overall effect is grunge, yes, but more nuanced and built for softer dimension.

Apart from the updated color scheme, soft goth makeup hinges on technique. Think smudged and smoked liner that’s blurred outward — not a crisp wing because it looks too precious. Eyeshadow isn’t packed on; the color gets built up in thin layers. Briceno suggests skipping bronzer altogether and going for a gray-toned contour, while skin gets a suede finish with “texture that looks intentional, never chalky.”

Getty Images/Karwai Tang / Contributor

Lips follow the same logic. They’re stained, not opaque, with lived-in edges that give more of a contoured than lined effect. Taken together, these details are what make the look feel so modern — moody, but with a soft center that stays romantic.

How To Try The Look

Trying soft goth at home is less about piling on product and more about choosing the right textures. “Matte and suede-matte formulas are what really give this look structure,” Briceno says. From there, a little restraint goes a long way: muted metallics belong at the center of the eye, catching the light without stealing the whole show.

Liner is where the look really comes together. Briceno favors gel or kohl in espresso, charcoal, or aubergine, worked tightly along the lash line and softly blurred outward. A slightly blown-out lower lash line in a smoky mauve also helps pull everything together without being overdone. Lashes stay understated, too — mascara should be applied lightly at the root and left clean, with no clumpiness.

And no, bleached brows aren’t mandatory. “Bleached brows are a styling choice, not a requirement,” Briceno says. “They’re great if you want full high-fashion alien glam, but the look can be just as elevated with softened brows.” Take your natural brow one shade lighter, brush it up, and diffuse the edges to keep things from veering too 2016. Cool-toned brows matter here — ashy taupes harmonize better with the color palette than warm, chocolatey tones.

Soft goth also adapts across skin tones, which is a major part of its appeal. Fair complexions pop with slate on the eyes, paired with rose cheeks and smoky mauve lips. Tan skin works with mushrooms and plums. Olive undertones look especially good in taupes, espressos, and aubergines, while deeper skin tones pair well with oxblood cheeks and bronzed eyes.

Across the board, tonal harmony is the goal. Get the colors right, keep the textures smoky, and the rest is just attitude — which, frankly, is what soft goth is all about.