Why Makeup Artists Are Obsessed With The "Brown Pencil Theory"

It’s been hypothesized that all you need in your makeup bag is a single brown pencil. Forget eyeshadow, contour, freckle pens, lip liners — the right brown will do all the work for you.

This is the “brown pencil theory,” which says that you can do your entire face with just this item. It’ll probably look even better than if you’d used five separate products. That’s why it’s gaining traction amongst makeup lovers and pros alike. The theory isn’t just about clearing some space in your kit; the goal is to create an easy — and, more importantly, pretty — monochrome look.

“Makeup artists have done this for years because there are so many ways to use a brown pencil,” says celebrity makeup artist Gemma Peace. “But it really only works if the shade is right and the formula is creamy enough to blend seamlessly.”

Below, a breakdown of the brown pencil theory and how to make it work for you.

The “Brown Pencil Theory”

According to Peace, you should think of a good brown pencil as not just an eyeliner or brow product, but as shadow and contour. “A cool brown will act as a contour, and a warm tone as a bronzer,” she explains.

So how does it actually work in practice? To try it yourself, Peace says to grab your favorite brown pencil and lightly smudge out the pigment anywhere you want more depth, like below the cheekbones and in the creases of the eye. Warming the product up on the back of your hand will make it more blendable.

From there, you can run it down the sides of your nose, under the tip, and across the bridge for a natural-looking nose contour. If you have a warmer brown, trace along the hairline and temples to add gentle warmth to the complexion.

Another pro-tip? Since your brow pencil is (theoretically) the same color as your hair, Peace also suggests “touching up your hairline in those sparser areas.” She turns the pencil sideways to softly shade with fine, gentle strokes.

For the eyes, a brown pencil is the real hero. Unlike black liner — which can sometimes feel harsh or overdone — brown perfectly finishes out a soft glam look. “I always opt for a smoky liner rather than anything too precise,” Peace says. “Skip lining your waterline and instead push the pencil into the root of your upper lashes — this instantly makes your lashes look fuller while keeping your eyes open and lifted.”

Smudge a micro-wing along the outer edge with your finger, and voila — you’re onto the last couple of steps. Take the same cool-toned brown and sketch out your Cupid’s bow and the center of your bottom lip for a trendy contoured pout. “Another surprising way to use it is to disguise a blemish or intensify a freckle,” Peace adds.

Choosing The Perfect Brown Pencil

The key to picking a brown pencil that works across your face is the formula: “If it’s not creamy, it’ll be impossible to blend and stretch the product,” Peace says. “A cool-toned, soft kohl tends to be ideal for the brown pencil theory because it diffuses easily but still delivers enough pigment to hold its shape and read as shadow.”

Her top pick is the Make Up For Ever Artist Color Pencil in Endless Cacao, which she calls “a staple” in her makeup kit. “It hits all the markers for being a versatile brown,” she says. “The creamy, neutral tone looks so natural on the skin.”

Another option is Sweed Beauty’s Satin Kohl Eyeliner in Dusty Brown, which acts like a “soft shadow in pencil form,” according to Peace. It’s matte, pigmented, and cool-toned — though she suggests working quickly since it sets down fast. If you want a little extra time to blend, this pencil from L’Oréal Paris in the shade Espresso offers plenty of slip at a drugstore price.

The final verdict? If one pencil can contour your face, define your eyes, fill your brows, line your lips, and fake a freckle — it’s not just a theory anymore. It’s smarter makeup.