Here we are again. IT Cosmetics recently announced a new full-coverage moisturizer on Instagram and fans aren't happy with the initial shade selection. The brand let fans down — yet again — by only offering three out of 12 colors for deeper skin tones.
In 2018, robots are fighting celebrities over their makeup application and futuristic mullets are taking over. But even with all the innovation, many people believe we still don't have inclusivity when it comes to foundation shades — and makeup lovers are finding it pretty inexcusable.
Back in September, the founder of IT Cosmetics, Jamie Kern Lima, made a viral speech about inclusion in the beauty world, mainly focusing on how IT Cosmetics was founded on size and age inclusion. Backlash, however, was fierce because the company's shade range has been critiqued as too white since at least 2016.
And when it comes to inclusion, fans don't think the brand is improving with the release of its Bye Bye Foundation Full Coverage Moisturizer. There are 12 initial shades, ranging from "fair" to "deep," and only three of them appear to accommodate customers with deep skin tones.
Fans were quick to call out the brand on social media about the limited shades, especially on Instagram. The brand is replying to individual critical Instagram comments, saying, "We hear you," and "We appreciate your feedback."
In a statement made to Allure, IT Cosmetics says there's a reason for the limited range — the skin care benefits, namely the SPF component.
"Typically SPF moisturizers with physical-only sunscreens have only been possible in a few shades — and at IT Cosmetics we’ve spent the past 2 years creating 12 skin-tone adapting shades for this moisturizer (3 Light, 3 Medium, 3 Tan and 3 Rich)," a representative from the brand told Allure. "And we continue to work hard to challenge this further."
"Due to the physical-only SPF in the product, we’re not able to go darker than our deepest shade. Expanding our shade range is a top priority and we are working on it!"
Bustle has also reached out to the brand for comment.
Other SPF foundations, like Lancôme, Tarte, and Urban Decay also appear to have limited shade ranges due to SPF inclusion. Physical-only sunscreens, which are considered more effective and safer than chemical sunscreens, tend to get chalky and ashy on darker complexions, making the SPF incompatible with darker foundations, according to experts.
As POPSUGAR pointed out, IT Cosmetics is owned by L'Oréal, which means they should have access to the well-respected Multicultural Beauty Lab, which seeks to make L'Oréal-owned brands and products as inclusive as possible. According to the publication, IT Cosmetics is not using the lab at this time, but claims that they are "planning to in the near future."
"We're constantly evaluating our product lines and expanding our offerings. Our work is transformative – it's not only bringing more diversity to products, it's helping to change attitudes about makeup. There can be and should be options for everyone," Balanda Atis, the manager for the Multicultural Beauty Lab at L'Oréal, told POPSUGAR.
Although the brand is promising more inclusion in the future, fans say IT Cosmetic's current products don't back up the same message, many taking to Twitter to express their frustrations.
Short and sweet.
Many black beauty lovers feel underserved — and undervalued.
People are still bringing up the disconnect between Lima's viral speech and the actual practices of IT Cosmetics.
Many beauty lovers say the brand is spotlighting their deepest shade in promotional images, misrepresenting the spectrum of hues in the actual line.
As this beauty lover pointed out, even drugstore brands are giving women of color more options with much smaller backing and budgets.
If current conversations around whitewashing in the beauty industry is any indication, this won't be the last you hear about IT Cosmetics or the brand's new line.