Hair Inspo

“Helmet Hair” Is About To Replace Your Slick-Back Bun

The molded hairstyle gives the classic bun a sharper, more fashion-forward update.

by Emma Stout
Meet the "helmet hair" slick-back trend, which is the cool evolution of the slicked-back bun.
Instagram/@gigihadid; Getty Images/Mindy Small / Stringer

There are only so many slicked-back buns you can do before you a) get bored and b) start to worry about your hairline. Sure, tying your hair back super tight can give you a quick facelift — and buy another day between washes — but at what cost?

Meet “helmet hair,” the molded, slickback style that skips hair ties entirely. Instead of brushing everything into a bun, your hair stays down. It’s combed straight back, molded close to your head along the sides, then lifted slightly at the crown — all with ample amounts of gel or hairspray to hold the shape. In other words, it’s the logical endpoint of the clean-girl bun: Nothing is pulled up, but nothing is out of place, either.

Why Is “Helmet Hair” Trending?

You’ve probably noticed it the past few weeks — not just on runways, but also trickling onto red carpets. Zendaya wore her bixie slicked straight back with a structural power suit on April 14 alongside her Dune co-stars at CinemaCon. The style also popped up at Paris and New York fashion weeks, where Calvin Klein and Tom Ford paired it with equally sharp officewear.

Getty / David Jon / Contributor

The common thread? Helmet hair can feel polished and elegant enough for a 9 a.m. meeting, but fashion-forward — and a little bit sexy — once the sun sets.

Helmet hair at Calvin Klein.Vogue Runway / Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

There’s also a practical reason it’s taking off: short hair is having a moment in general. Bobs, pixies, and bixies are the hottest cuts to try right now — and, yes, they look great, but they’re too short to toss into a ponytail. This gives you that same pulled-back, off-the-face effect without needing an elastic.

Slicked-back hair at Tom Ford.Vogue Runway / Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

It’s also in step with the ongoing ’80s revival in fashion and beauty, just not in an obvious way. The lift at the crown is there, but it’s not full Madonna-level volume. Still, paired with that molded finish, you can see a nod to the era’s power-dressing energy.

How To Try The Look

Whether you’ve just gone short or you’re officially over the slick-back bun on repeat, this is the style to try as the weather heats up — and it’s surprisingly easy to achieve.

First, start with damp hair, which is easier to mold into place. To create the wet look that Zendaya’s been rocking lately, celebrity hairstylist Ursula Stephen starts by blow-drying hair up and away from the face to create volume at the crown. Then comes product — hair cream and oil. The goal is saturation, so don’t be shy with it.

If you want a softer finish, you’re basically done. Comb everything straight back (read: no part) and finish with a light-hold hairspray — concentrating on the sides and really pressing those sections close to your head so your hair moves in one direction. For a more lacquered, wet look, apply gel after cream and before shaping.

Push your hair forward while it dries or use your fingers instead of a comb up top if you want a little extra volume and texture.

Helmet hair at Calvin Klein.Vogue Runway / Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

Think of it as the slick-back bun’s sharper, cooler, more fashion-person cousin.