Fashion Week

The '90s & '00s Trends That Were All Over Fashion Week

From cutouts at Christian Siriano to Care Bears at Moschino.

New York Fashion Week 2021 shows are here, and designers are showing outdoors or in iconic views. Ah...
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All things considered, this is the first New York Fashion Week season in almost two years that will be held in person, like was the norm in seasons prior to the coronavirus pandemic. Although, it won’t be exactly like what you’re used to experiencing, whether in person or through a livestream. Audiences are much smaller, and most shows will require proof of vaccination and encourage audiences to mask up. Still, they’ll be happening live in real time with a crowd of editors, buyers, celebrities, and stylists in tow. And with a Fashion Week invite, you can watch it in person — not from a computer screen in your living room.

Indeed, with New York Fashion Week standing as one of the last major events before the world shut down in March 2020, there have been two consecutive seasons — September 2020 and March 2021 — that have remained largely virtual. Sure, there was the odd outside showing or masked presentation, but it was nothing like the jam-packed events that Fashion Week had been previously. Until now.

What can we expect this season? Designers are staging more outdoor shows than ever, embracing a sense of unbridled optimism that points toward a safer and more social future. In some cases, brands are taking over entire streets to stage fashion shows, awards ceremonies, and red carpets, all in one groundbreaking event. When they are showing indoors, designers are revving up the glamour, choosing venues with personal and social significance, from Gotham Hall to the Empire State Building.

And the designs themselves are fun and playful. Designers Tom Ford and Theophilio sent bright hues down the runway while brands like Moschino and Bevza embraced the ‘90s with fun cartoon characters and soft minimalist silhouettes, respectively.

Ahead, find everything you want to know about the designers who are showing at New York Fashion Week for the Spring 2022 season.

Selkie Spring 2022

Courtesy of Selkie

Selkie presented their first runway show in the most perfect Spring setting, nestled in Soho’s Elizabeth Street Garden during New York Fashion Week.

In the inclusive showing, the brand featured a “breaking free”-themed collection modeled by people of various races, genders, and sizes. With a Rapunzel air, each look was ethereal in quality, boasting lace-up torsos, puff sleeves, constructed bodices, and more.

Khaite Spring 2022

Courtesy of Khaite

Khaite showed on the runway three full days after their Fashion Week bash, which was an under-the-radar, no-photos-allowed event that enabled all in attendance to let loose and relax, re-connecting with old colleagues, friends, industry favorites, and more.

It was aligned with the low-key vibe of the show itself, which was held on the Lower East side in a dimly lit and hazy space.

With bright white satin coats, metallic minis, and cutout bustiers that reflected the crisp cotton tee beneath, the collection seemed to catch the light just-so, perhaps a nod to the re-emerging of the world, slowly but surely.

There were satin puffers, leather trenches, and sequin dresses, all setting forth a collection that was just as much about physical touch as it was fit — and wearable to the city slicker more than ever.

Staud Spring 2022

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Staud’s presentation was staged against the backdrop of a disco ball and punctuated by a fireworks show over the river. In short, designer Sarah Staudinger was casting all subtlety to the wind when it came to kicking off a post-pandemic world with a bang.

Trying not to focus too much on trends, she showed a bright and upbeat collection of miniskirts and halter tops, cutout dresses and parachute pants. In tones of fire engine red, sunburst yellow, cornflower blue, and a variety of green hues, the eclectic collection drove home an optimistic view of the future, which is something that the world could use a little more of these days.

Altuzarra Spring 2022

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Joseph Altuzarra showed at New York Fashion Week for the first time in almost five years, having left for Paris Fashion Week back in 2017. Though the pandemic was not easy for the designer in New York City, he told Vogue, “I felt this intense kinship with New York; I wanted to be part of the rebuilding or rebirth.”

As such, he harkened back to earlier collections that are so continuously on the minds of all fashion lovers, like his shibori dye from Sprig 2016, which started the show off with a bang.

What followed was an army of his side-slit midi skirts, easeful shirt and pant sets, and more familiar silhouettes that fans love, re-imagined in colorful prints, bright red, and classic black-and-white as well.

Tory Burch Spring 2022

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Tory Burch used Soho’s Mercer Street as her runway, hosting a fashion-filled block party that the world was so desperately in need of. Not only was it a celebration of style, but she also enlisted the help of local downtown businesses to set up shop on the street.

The collection as a whole was dedicated to Claire McCardell, sportswear designer from nearly three-quarters of a century ago. Burch announced at the show that she had established the Tory Burch Claire McCardell Fashion Fellowship at the Maryland Center for History and Culture, where the late designer’s archives are housed.

Through the bright easeful wear of knit skirts, hook-and-eye closure dresses, low slung pants styled with bodysuits, and more, McCardell’s mission was clear on the Tory Burch runway for Spring. And, to take a bow, instead of wearing her own designs, Burch herself opted to honor her muse by wearing a vintage McCardell look that could have existed in her own show today.

Theophilio Spring 2022

Courtesy of Theophilio

CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Finalist Theophilio hit New York Fashion Week on Saturday with a unisex collection that was titled “Air Jamaica,” which a press release from the design house explained, “symbolized the spread of Jamaican culture around the world.”

The bright colors of the flag were ever-present, with models walking down the runway in head-to-toe color, including green, yellow, black, and red striped looks in the middle of the collection showing.

Most, if not all, of the looks were body conscious, shown on a range of sizes and shapes, with slip dresses cascading to the floor, mini dresses hitting way above the knee, and looser silhouettes made of sheer fabrics that left little to the imagination.

Markarian Spring 2022

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Though the sixth collection for the up-and-coming designer, Markarian’s Alexandra O’Neill chose to stage her first-ever runway show for the brand this New York Fashion Week, choosing the iconic Rainbow Room as her backdrop.

In tones of white, pale pink, and baby blue, an army of romantic dresses and skirts walked the runway, crafted of brocade silk, sequins, and rosette-covered materials. Inspired by the Victorian era in Europe as well as 1940s America, each look was a must-have in the stylish dresser’s closet for spring.

Brandon Maxwell Spring 2022

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Brandon Maxwell put on a psychedelic showing at New York Fashion Week, sending a parade of body-inclusive models down the runway in ‘60s-inspired prints, bold contrasting colors, and statement-making black and white looks. And it’s all available for pre-order on the designer’s website.

The collection was a new foray into a more whimsical version of Maxwell. The designer shared with Vogue, “When I started, I was maybe insecure about not having a fashion education, so I felt I needed to be more serious. But I’m not that serious a person. During the pandemic, I decided that if I got the opportunity ever again, I’d like to do it as me.” And do it as Maxwell, he did.

Carolina Herrera Spring 2022

Courtesy of Carolina Herrera

Carolina Herrera threw all caution to the wind for Spring 2022, designing a collection that invited a world of glamour as outside begins to re-open. It was one filled with optimism and grace, looking more toward a future of socialization, rather than a past of isolation.

With bright colors and voluminous silhouettes that are so iconic of the fashion house, there debuted everything from bubble-hem ballgowns and pink and red buffalo-check minis to flowing seersucker maxi skirts and matching crop tops to. It was, in short, what the future of fashion should be: bright, playful, and timeless.

Moschino Spring 2022

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Jeremy Scott’s Bryant Park show gave a nod to the fashion weeks that came before, when the location was “the tents” and designers presented at a smaller and less spread out Fashion Week in New York City.

And, though it rained slightly as the models walked down the catwalk and the audience pulled out a few umbrellas here and there, it was a sun-filled Spring collection, to be sure.

Harkening back to the ‘90s, he presented a pastel collection full of mini skirt suits (think: The Nanny), cropped tweed jackets (like the old favorites of The Supers), and childhood-inspired graphic printed looks that seemed as though they were pulled from some fictional amalgamation of My Little Pony, Muppet Babies, and The Care Bears.

It was whimsical and unapologetic, as all Moschino collections are, and played towards the resurgence of ‘90s fashion in a more tailored way than most.

Proenza Schouler Spring 2022

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Designing duo Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough spent much of quarantine in Kauai, which was clear with their beach-inspired collection for Spring 2022. Though it was still crafted largely of black and white, they added their go-to pops of color by way or fire engine red, bright yellow, and hot pink.

Alhough the designers used Hawaii not as a literal reference, but more as a travel inspiration, it was hard to ignore the warm-weather looks that instantly transported you to a beach — no matter where your favorite might be.

As the brand always proves, they are masters of everyday wear, unveiling an army of midi dresses, colorful suiting, mesh silhouettes, and more that will take you from morning to after-hours with ease.

Adam Lippes Spring 2022

Courtesy of Adam Lippes

Adam Lippes’ Spring collection for the coming year was largely inspired by “Dutch couturier turned baker-cum-floral genius” Natasja Sadi. In a collaborative fashion, Lippes crafted a collection that used Sadi’s florals as prints, embellishments, and more, adding that little something special to his otherwise classic silhouettes.

There were longline white coats, floral-printed maxi dresses, wide-leg trousers fit for day or night, and cropped matching sets of bralettes and high-waisted shorts made of rust-infused red tones.

Bevza Spring 2022

Courtesy of Bevza

Bevza took a stance against collection copycats in the industry, reclaiming the right and copying herself instead. For Spring 2022, the designer looked to her own past collections and drew inspiration from them, looking inward at her own progression of design and the history of her brand.

In a press release from the brand, the designer wrote, “Copying greatly influences the overproduction in the fashion industry. This is a big ecological problem I’d like to emphasize. It is important as the ethical side of the issue.”

The collection was rife with longline knits, bright satin shirting, slip dresses, cutout tops and more that all harkened back to the minimalism of the ‘90s — with a fresh approach that made it feel more modern than retro.

Prabal Gurung Spring 2022

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Prabal Gurung’s Spring show was rife with romantic flourishes, from bustles to puff sleeves, giant bows to bubble hems. With a parade of florals, flowing silks, and pale pink hues, Gurung added a whimsical quality to the collection that only he can so effortlessly bring.

It was tailor made for the shopper who is ready to head outside — whether to a party or to run errands — delivering the optimism and brightness that the world needs more of right now.

Ulla Johnson Spring 2022

Courtesy of Ulla Johnson

Ulla Johnson took the theme of new beginnings to an unprecedented height this Fashion Week, showing at the Brooklyn Botanical Garden on Wednesday morning, nearby which the designer herself lives and found respite in during the last 18 months of overall solitude. “I wanted to tell a story about pauses,” she shared with Vogue, crafting her ruffle and lace-filled collection in a soothing palette of deep navy, soft oatmeal, and fresh Kelly green.

Maryam Nassir Zadeh Spring 2022

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Maryam Nassir Zadeh’s shows are always chock full of minimal separates that boast clean lines and a mix-and-match quality, though they still pack a hard punch with bright tones, asymmetric silhouettes, and unexpected details.

This season, there was no straying from her signature aesthetic, with an army of looks that included 2000s-inspired low-slung hips and matching belts, sheer cardigans, embellished slinky slip dresses, and more.

Harlem’s Fashion Row Spring 2022

Courtesy of HFR

Harlem’s Fashion Row (HFR) kicked off New York Fashion Week with its 14th annual fashion show and style awards, this year with a “Renaissance Forever” theme. The organization, founded to foster Black talent in the industry, shared that the show aimed to “celebrating the grit and vibrancy of the Harlem community from some of the most inspiring emerging Black designers.”

A crowd that included Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour gathered on 137th street to honor luminaries like stylist and creative director Freddie Leiba, designer Christopher John Rogers, and stylist Zerina Akers.

Following the show, HFR unveiled a visual installation on 125th street. Stitch Fix’s window featured its Elevate collection, which launches Sept. 27 and features the work of designers like Jamela Acheampong of Kahmune. And Banana Republic’s window showcased its new sustainable collaboration with industry-favorite Harbison, launching in October.

Christian Siriano Spring 2022

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The setting for Christian Siriano’s Spring 2022 show was one of the past, choosing the former Greenwich Savings Bank with its high ceilings, old-world construction, and echoing chambers. His collection had a similar connection to the days of yore, inspired by old family photographs that he poured through while creating his looks over the past few months.

Throughout, there were references to a number of decades. Be it sheer corseted lace gowns with a Grace Kelly air, bold ‘80s power suiting in tones of bright orange, or 2000s-inspired cut-outs framing the bodice and skirt of a fitted dress, his family history was there in head-turning fashion.

Collina Strada Spring 2022

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Collina Strada kicked off Fashion Month with a rooftop showing in Brooklyn, taking advantage of the beautiful Fall weather and allowing for a more comfortable and safe setting when it comes to large social gatherings.

The collection was an optimistic looking glass into the future with bright colors, flowing skirts, and even corseted gowns to usher into a return to your social life.