Mastering the winged eyeliner is definitely a challenge. But for those with hooded eyes, eyeliner is just that much more difficult. Eyeliner (or any kind of eye makeup) becomes a bit tricky when you can't really see the eyelid. As a close friend of mine with hooded eyes once lamented, “all my beautiful work blending eyeshadows and eyelining is basically hidden whenever my eyes are open.” Of course, she still rocks eye makeup because nothings going to stop her from getting dolledup. Instead, like many others who also have hooded eyes, she has changed her approach for doing hooded eye makeup.
Hooded eyes can range from slightly hooded to very hooded, where almost all of the mobile-lid (the part of your eye lid that moves) is covered. On top of that, hooded eyes can happen for a variety of reasons, like aging or tiredness. One of the trickiest things to master is eyeliner because, depending on how hooded your eyes are, it can really change the way your face will look. If not done properly, it is either totally gone or can make it seem like you have raccoon eyes. Nobody wants that!
So, to help out my fellow eyeliner-loving gals, I rounded up some of the best tips for doing your eyeliner for however hooded your eyes may be.
1. Find the perfect eyeliner!
The first and best thing to do is find the perfect eyeliner. Once you have a product that works best for you, it can speed up your makeup process and have you looking flawless at the same time. When looking around for the perfect eyeliner, keep in mind the look you want to achieve and how you will be using it. For example, if you're going to be applying it on your lash line, a pencil may be your best bet.
2. Focus on the outer corner
When thinking about wearing eyeliner, focus on the outer corner of your eyes. Using eyeliner or a dark eyeshadow there will make your eyes look wider and bigger, which helps with the hoodedness. It will also help to create the effect of having liner on all of your lid, even though you have only applied it to the corner.
3. Apply liner to waterline
Unlike other eye shapes, one of the challenges with hooded eyes is the lack of eyelid space that is visible once you open your eyes. A good way to conserve the lid is to apply your liner to the upper waterline instead. For this technique, it is best to use a pencil liner because (and I’ve experienced this) liquid liner in your eye is a big mess!
Another way to apply to the waterline is by tightlining. According to xoVain, it is basically “waterlining 2.0.” It will help make your lashes look thicker and fuller without using up your lid for lining. You can also feather an eyeliner pencil through your lashes gently as well to get the same effect.
4. Only line 1/2 to 1/3 of your eyelid
One of the problems with lining hooded eyes is looking as if you no longer have an upper lid. A good way to avoid this issue is to begin lining from the outer corner and carefully tapering inward only about 1/3 to 1/2 of your lid. By doing this, you’re still giving yourself that top liner without looking like you’re missing a part of your eye.
This is also a great technique to use when trying to create a winged eyeliner look as you can still create the wing without having to line the entire eye.
5. Use gel liner for wings
Creating the perfect wing is seriously an art (one which even I have yet to perfect) and I commend all those who successfully do it without the help of some beauty tape. For this, many suggest using liquid liner, as it will give you the best control and sleek line. Yet, for those with hooded eyes, this can leave you with some unwanted black lines in places you weren’t expecting if the liner hasn’t dried before you open them.
An equally good substitute for liquid liner is gel. Although it can take some getting used to, gel will still give you the control you need to make the wing perfect and not be as likely to leave you with stripes all over your lids. Gel will also last as long as liquid liner, so no fretting over having to touch up your makeup throughout the day!
6. Create an elongated wing
When creating a wing on your eyes, many spend time aligning the triangle created with the rest of the lid. This is something that just can’t really be done when you have hooded eyes. But, this doesn’t mean a wing can’t be done. According to Melmphs, who has been a beauty vlogger for about three years, creating a wing "can really open your eyes."
Instead of a small flick where most of the liner is on the lid, elongate it so that the wing can be seen when the eye is open and most of the dramatic effect is away from the lid. She also emphasizes to make sure the wing/line go upward to keep the eyes from looking droopy. Not only will this help to open your eye, it will also let you rock those wings like there’s no tomorrow!
7. Avoid the lower lid
Of course, this is more of a preference, but hear me out. Because of the shape of hooded eyes, it can make it seem like your eyes are smaller and more closed. To give yourself a wider-awake look and an open eye, again, keep the strokes of your makeup upward, especially on your eyes.
If you focus on your lower lid, it will bring attention downward, making your eyes look more droopy and closed. Although there is nothing wrong with lining the bottom of your lid (and there are definitely ways to do it so that it looks subtle and great), it is best to not spend as much time on that part of your eye makeup.
8. Use eyelid tape/glue
If you’re really not in the mood to deal with all of these suggestions and you just want to open your eyes a bit more, use some eyelid tape or glue. It’s a very big trend in Asian countries (Michelle Phan gives you a good step by step to using eyelid tape/glue). Using a tape like Koji Eye Talk Double Eyelid Maker can have the mobile lid glued to create a new crease, so your lids will be more visible, which will also allow you to do your makeup as you please.
I must advise that using eyelid tape for long periods (like everyday) might not be a good idea. The skin on and above your eyes is very sensitive and delicate, so using tape or glue in this area can have negative results (like making your eyes more hooded). But, I also like to believe in moderation, so once in awhile should be alright.
Sometimes, the best way to learn how to do your makeup is to simply try new things. The worst thing that can happen is you have to start over again.
Images: @benefitcosmetics/Instagram; Getty Images; Giphy (5)